Cortina d’Ampezzo

IMG_6443A week ago, I returned from the Italian Alpine town of Cortina d’Ampezzo with improved skiing skills–I now proudly count myself among the ranks of advanced beginners–and a cache of taste memories I’ll treasure far longer than it’ll take me to descend double black slopes. (Okay, that might be a minor exaggeration.)IMG_6489

Aside from my daily jaunts with skiing master instructor Fabio (banish those assumptions immediately—he was an older gentleman with three children and a penchant for not laughing at my nervous altitude-induced jokes), I spent a lot of time eating at some of the fantastic establishments located all around this ritzy, mountainous area.

Located in Italy’s Veneto region, Cortina possesses an interesting and distinct cuisine. As a mountain town, the winter fare is unsurprisingly hearty and comprised of significant amounts of venison and other game in addition to hearty meats, like this “stinco”–or enormous veal shank: IMG_6463and tongue: IMG_6475, earthy varieties of local mushrooms, and a distinctly Germanic influence. The pastas were out of this world, and I was lucky to sample many previously unfamiliar varieties—no small feat for a self-professed pasta connoisseur.

Some of my favorite typical dishes and ingredients included deer with mirtillo (fresh forest blueberries),  paccheri (a large, cannelloni style noodle). This is a terrible photograph of an incredible paccheri alla vodka: IMG_6462finferle (small local chanterelle mushrooms), pictured here in this incredible paccheri that was filled with mushroom creamIMG_6472 casunziei or casumziei ampezzani—the spelling apparently varies (beet and poppyseed ravioli) (here are two different restaurant’s preparations of the dish:)IMG_6507IMG_6468and Treviso radicchio: Guanciale (pork jowl) was also plentiful, and the two are pictured here in this gnocchi, which resembled no gnocchi I had tried before:IMG_6508 as were multiple varieties of delicious, raw artichoke salad. here’s one covered in shaved parmesan with thinly sliced pears:IMG_6509

The restaurant scene in Cortina is absolutely fantastic—not a shocker considering the flocks of well-heeled Europeans (and a few Americans!) that frequent the area, sporting head-to-toe fur and tans that could rival many a Long Island teenager. Establishments range from rustic and traditional to immersion circulator-employing and Michelin starred, but across the board we were extremely impressed. One particularly enjoyable aspect of dining in Cortina is the preponderance of “rifugi”—old mountain huts located on the slopes which serve hungry skiers high class cuisine.

My favorite places:

Il Meloncino al Caminetto—Located right on the mountain, this rifugio is a magnificent spot for lunch—nestled inside the Alps–, although dinner is worth the trip too. We spent a sun-soaked afternoon chowing down on incredible food (and returned in the evening too!) *the above paccheri alla vodka, veal and this wondrous pasta with sweetbreads, fava beans and guanciale are all from here as is the view in the top photo!IMG_6439

Da Aurelio—The chef here means serious business-employing a range of modernist culinary techniques including steeping oil in local pine:IMG_6476at this mountain range restaurant. The ingredients and inspiration are all local, while the cooking methods are new and exciting. Here is some delicious octopus from Da Aurelio: 

El Zoco—This is a true homey, rustic Cortina restaurant. The grilled meats are particularly fabulous, as are the sausages.

Baita pie Tofana—We had a sumptuous lunch and some pink bread: IMG_6505at this Michelin starred ski-in, ski-out rifugio. The gnocchi and the round beet ravioli were from here!

On our way back to Milan, before returning to the freezing Northeast, we stopped for an afternoon in fair Verona
IMG_6536IMG_6515where we had a terrific lunch at “Antica Torretta“: IMG_6529IMG_6530



gbhmulti2how-to-make-courtesan-au-chocolat-03132014-114545Last night, I had the sincere pleasure of seeing Wes Anderson’s newest film

“The Grand Budapest Hotel

Everything, from the gorgeous tableaux in every shot, to the standout performances by, well, everyone was magnificent. As usual, Anderson’s aesthetic was completely spot on, especially in the case of the everpresent Mendl’s bakery, where the girl loved by Zero, the protagonist, works as a baker. If you haven’t seen the film, I won’t spoil it for you, but will leave you with this lovely video extra:

 of how to prepare a “Courtesan au Chocolat”,the pastry for which Mendl’s is famous.
*photos courtesy of